So. Welcome to my first ever itinerary post. Hurrah! I'll try and make it as useful as possible, I promise.
NOTE: Please do not travel until it is deemed safe/acceptable to do so by HM Government and Public Health England. This post is intended as something to plan towards only once the COVID-19 pandemic has subsided.
I decided to write this for a few reasons:
A) I've been meaning to do an itinerary post for ages, and simply haven't gotten around to it. COVID-19 has allowed me the time to get thinking about it properly.
B) I'm always worried that an itinerary suggestion I create won't be that amazing because I won't have spent any huge amount of time in said place. Well, I am from Durham, so I know a lot about it. Problem solved.
C) Durham has been in the news recently (for the wrong reasons), and I saw a lot of people online asking what was there to see/do. Well, let me tell you!
Firstly, some fun facts.
Durham is one of the UK's smallest cities. It's beautifully compact, allowing you to stroll from place to place with ease.
Durham is in County Durham, which is the only English county to have the word 'county' in its name.
County Durham isn't its full/proper name - it's The County Palatine of Durham which I think sounds wonderfully grand (and totally underused).
The Bishop of Durham is fourth most powerful member of the Diocese of the Church of England (not that I'm religious, but it is interesting nonetheless).
Why go?
Firstly the north east of England gets a bad reputation from the south. It's unfair and undeserved; the north is wonderful and full of things to do, especially if you like nature, the outdoors and history. Despite its small size, Durham itself has a good number of things to see and do, and is equally historic and picturesque, particularly in the warmer months. There's some very cool local shops, and the city has a very vibrant nightlife scene; there are some cracking restaurant, pubs and bars. Durham is also surrounded by beautiful countryside filled with stately homes, castles, Roman ruins and is also a stone's throw from the coast. Newcastle-upon-Tyne, Gatsehead and Sunderland are all similarly close by, as is the stark beauty of the Northumberland coast. It is easily accessible by rail, road and (to a lesser extent) air. Finally, people from the north of England are incredibly warm, friendly and welcoming. Come and enjoy some northern hospitality!
Getting there
By train:
Durham sits on the East Coast Main Line railway which runs between London King's Cross and Scotland.
The train trip to Durham from London takes approximately 3 hours, though there are quicker limited stopping trains, but to get to Durham you'd need to change at York or Darlington as most of these limited stop trains plough through Durham at 125mph en route to Newcastle-upon-Tyne, a mere 15 minutes away by train.
From Edinburgh the journey is about 90 minutes, travelling south along the beautiful Northumberland coast for a time, before arriving into Newcastle and then Durham. From Newcastle, as mentioned, takes 15 minutes and trains are very frequent.
As is with British train tickets, prices can vary wildly from the quite reasonable to the downright extortionate, so research this carefully, and weigh up the costs of flying and cross-compare the two.
By air:
Newcastle International Airport (NCL) would also allow easy access to Durham either by car or train, and you can fly to NCL with British Airways from London Heathrow (LHR), and this takes around an hour. You'll need to catch a Metro from the airport to Newcastle's Central station and then another train to Durham (unless you hire a car which would offer a good deal of flexibility).
Teeside International Airport (MME) lies to the south which was supposed to commence flights to London City Airport (LCY) in April 2020, and this also allows access to Durham via car using either the A1(M) or the A19.
By car:
I wouldn't advise driving to Durham from London; it's a really awful drive, it isn't scenic, and it takes a very long time (usually around 5/6 hours).
From Edinburgh is marginally more agreeable, but it too takes a longer time than one might want as the A1 isn't a motorway after Newcastle. It's also positively riddled with speed cameras, and often has HGVs or agricultural vehicles slowing everything down.
Accommodation
Despite its small size, Durham has a good number of hotels in and around the immediate city centre, and a similarly good number of B&Bs and holiday rentals (though the latter may be less central):
Hotel Indigo is located very centrally on Old Elvet and is architecturally probably the most impressive hotel in the city, though it comes with a hefty price tag.
The Durham Marriott Hotel Royal County is a short walk from Hotel Indigo and has been part of Durham's tourist industry since I was a child.
The City Hotel is just over the road from the Marriott, and offers rooms at a much more budget-friendly price point, though it's perfectly charming and part of a pub.
The Townhouse is located closer to Durham Prison, but don't let that put you off! It's a stone's throw from the city centre and some great places to eat and drink.
The Radisson Blu is located by the River Wear and opposite the updated Gala Theatre area and is really well situated for access to the city centre and the train station. It's not right next to any pubs or eateries so it's a quieter option, but as Durham is so small, nothing is very far away.
Premier Inn Durham City Centre is on the opposite side of the river to the Radisson Blu, and so is that much closer to the Gala Theatre area's pubs and eateries.
Getting around
Like I said before, Durham is one of the UK's smallest cities, and so you can walk its length and breadth in a short amount of time. Parking in the city is widely available (and also likely at your hotel), but obviously this has a cost implication. The city has a very small and limited public transport system that links the various outlying villages to the city centre; the main bus station is located on North Road, not far from Durham's train station.
To do
Durham Cathedral
I say this with complete and unashamed bias; the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Cathedral Church of Christ, the Blessed Virgin Mary and Saint Cuthbert of Durham (the full, grandiose name) is one of my favourite buildings on the whole planet, and it's in my home town. How lucky am I? Despite being an atheist, I absolutely adore this building. It's arguably the symbol of the small city, and sits proudly on top of a peninsula hill overlooking the whole city. Construction of this marvel of Norman architectural engineering began in 1093, and was largely completed by 1133, though additions were made up until 1490. The cathedral itself is gargantuan and its interior is as impressive as its exterior, particularly its stained glass windows; the Rose Window is a major draw and is absolutely exquisite. The cathedral has been used as a filming locations in numerous Hollywood blockbusters; it is part of Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry and it's also part of the Palace of Asgard in the Marvel series movie Avengers: Endgame. The Bishop of Durham is a senior member of the Church of England and thus the cathedral holds some very important religious items including the relic of Saint Cuthbert, the head of Oswald of Northumbria and the remains of the Venerable Bede. The cathedral's organ is a sound to savour, and was manufactured by Durham-based organ maker Harrison & Harrison. The cathedral is the major tourist attraction of the city, bringing almost 700,000 visitors through its doors per year. The cathedral also contains its own mini-me; a version of itself made of Lego located by the crypt.
Entrance to the cathedral is free, but a donation is suggested for its enormous upkeep costs.
Durham Castle
Across Palace Green from Durham Cathedral sits Durham Castle, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. The castle was the residence of the Bishop of Durham until 1837, at which point it was occupied by the University College of Durham. The castle is of strategic importance; it was used both as a base to guard against Scottish invasion and also against English rebellions. It served as an observation post by the Royal Air Force in WW II, but luckily escaped bombing by the Luftwaffe due to heavy fog. Unlike the cathedral, visitors can only access the castle on a guided tour; it is after all a working building and a halls of residence for around 100 students. The castle contains various exhibitions and pieces, including stained glass, weapons and suits of armour, plus decorative and fine arts.
Tours (in term time) are at 13:15, 14:15, 15:15 and 16:15.
Tours (outside of term time) are as above, plus 10:15, 11:15 and 12:15.
Entrance to the castle is £5.00 for adults and £4.00 for children.
Opening times can be found on the website.
Durham Marketplace
While the cathedral and castle sit atop a hill, the marketplace is Durham's 'heart'; it's the centre of the city from which most streets converge. Unfortunately the below image is from a rainy winter's day, but the Marketplace is often home to an outdoor market selling all manner of locally sourced and made products, including Durham Gin which I am quite partial to. The Marketplace contains a couple of statues, Durham Town Hall and a church at the northern end, the latter of which has a shop that sells some nice locally made souvenirs. The western side of the Marketplace contains the indoor market which is down a slight incline and is full of all manner of stalls, though it must be said, these aren't quite so artisanal as those found in the less frequent open-air market. Saddler Street heads south to the cathedral and castle, while pedestrianised Silver Street heads downhill to the southwest towards the River Wear and Framwellgate Bridge (dating from the Fifteenth Century).
The Oriental Museum
Located about 1 mile (or a 20 minute walk) from the city centre is the small but fascinating Oriental Museum. Situated south of the city, this museum is close to a large number of the university's buildings. As the name suggests, this museum specialises in art, culture, history and archeology of the east, from Ancient Egypt to China and Japan. I first went to the Oriental Museum (or the Gulbenkian Museum, as it was called then!) on a school trip. I was (and still am) fascinated by the Far East, so this was always a firm favourite. They even have a mummy from Ancient Egypt. The collections also contain art, ceramics, textiles, jewellery, and armour. Late 2020 should see the opening of Silk Roads, which looks to transform the ground floor of the museum. This may now of course be delayed due to COVID-19.
Entrance to the Oriental Museum is £1.50 for adults or £0.60 for children, which is an absolute bargain considering its contents.
Opening times can be found on the website.
Botanical Gardens
Durham's Botanical Gardens are located a short walk from the Oriental Museum. These mature, forested gardens offer all manner of flora along winding paths covering 10 hectares, both outdoor and in greenhouses, including a cactarium and insect exhibitions. There are also examples of aquatic plants and ponds, with fish. The site also features numerous examples of art and sculpture, as well as nods to Durham's coal-mining past. This is definitely a really lovely way to spend a little time and enjoy a stroll with a cup of tea/coffee. There is a visitors centre as well as a garden shop.
Entrance to the Botanical Gardens is £15.00 for adults and £6.00 (ticket is valid for a year). Dogs are not permitted, except guide and assistance dogs.
Opening times can be found on the website.
The Durham Museum and Heritage Centre
The Durham Museum and Heritage Centre focusses on the history of the city and has models of the medieval city and market place in the 19th Century. Though it's quite small, it's a nice diversion for a little while. The building it is housed in is also worth a photograph or two. This museum is also really close to Kingsgate Bridge which offers lovely views of the river and Elvet Bridge (you can actually see it in the background of the photograph below).
Entrance to the museum is £2.50 for adults and £0.50 for children.
The River Wear
While some might not think this is a tourist attraction in itself, the river literally frames the city, forming a peninsula around the historic core. During warmer months, rowing boats can be hired which is fun and picturesque, and there are some leisure cruises too. There is also the annual Durham Regatta which takes place in June, though this year's event has been cancelled due to COVID-19.
Crook Hall and Gardens
Deceptively, Crook Hall and Gardens isn't located in the market town of Crook (which is a totally different place about 30 mins west of Durham); it's actually located close to the River Wear, a short walk from the Radisson Blu hotel. Consisting of a series of beautiful English country gardens and a Medieval manor house dating from the Thirteenth century, and is one of the oldest inhabited buildings in Durham. This is a lovely place for a wander and to grab a coffee at the Garden Gate cafe. If you are feeling especially indulgent, why not book a traditional English tea session? Additionally, you can take watercolour classes, flower arranging workshops or even make your own glass ornaments. The house and gardens regularly play host to wedding parties, so make sure you're able to visit the grounds in advance.
Entrance prices to the house and gardens vary depending on the season and the pass duration; from £5.50 for adults and £3.00 for children.
Shopping
Despite its small size, Durham actually has a good number of shops. Of course, you can expect to find the usual chain shops but Durham is also home to may unique and individual shops. The main shopping avenues are:
Saddler St,
Silver St,
Elvet Bridge, and
The Prince Bishops Shopping Centre.
There is also the indoor market off the Marketplace, but it's not very boutique or unique.
Eating/drinking
Durham has an excellent and vast array of places to eat and drink (despite its size!) largely due to two things: its northern natives and a huge student population who both love a bite to eat and a couple of drinks. The Gala Theatre development by Claypath has a good number of bars and restaurants to choose from, including a champagne and cocktail bar, and can the whole development can get very lively at the weekend. Claypath itself has a number of decent pubs, too, those these tend to be of a lower calibre and can be a bit rough and ready. Heading towards the centre, Saddler St and the North Bailey have a good mix of bars and restaurants, though some of the bars can be very student heavy in term time. Flat White Kitchen does excellent brunches (but arrive early or you'll be in a long queue) and Fat Hippo is always highly rated, too. There's a very good (and miniscule) gin bar (The Tin of Sardines) on Elvet Bridge which has some nice tables outside which are great for people watching. Heading over the bridge, and you have a good few pubs and restaurants, including Tango (which is very good indeed), The Half-Moon Inn, The Court Inn, and Zen. You could also head towards the river to The Boathouse and Browns cocktail bar, too.
Silver Street doesn't have much in the way of nightlife; it's more geared towards shopping, and as you head over Framwellgate Bridge you arrive at North Road (which is positioned northwest/southeast, oddly) and can be quite rough and ready, particularly late on a Saturday night; I'd probably avoid this area myself.
Durham has so many places to eat and drink I could actually write a full blog post on that topic alone!
Entertainment/theatre/cinema
As well as having an array of bars and restaurants, the Gala Theatre is also a theatre (who'd have thought?!) and cinema. The 'what's on' section of their website will have a full roundup of their changing and varied schedule, but you can expect to see theatre, musicals, comedy, dance, a children's programme and panto at Christmas.
Durham Lumiere
A strictly winter attraction, Durham hosts the annual Lumiere festival of light which sees its most famous buildings illuminated in stunning visual displays, as well as all other kinds of incredible light installations; it really is a wonderful draw. Having held its tenth anniversary in 2019, this in itself is a reason to head to Durham in the winter and see the city in a whole new light (sorry... I couldn't resist).
Photography
Durham is, if nothing else, incredibly picturesque. It is full of beautiful historic buildings and cobbled streets. You can barely turn a corner without finding a beautiful Tudor-style building, stunning churches, winding alleys, Medieval bridges or riparian panoramas.
Around and about
There's also loads to do around Durham. I've summarised a few of these below and added links to their websites:
Finchale Priory - located a few miles from Durham, this is an ancient ruined priory set in extensive grounds by the River Wear. It's very picturesque and relaxing, and an ideal spot for a stroll and a summer picnic.
Beamish - located near Chester-le-Street (approximately 8 miles from Durham), Beamish is a full-on emersion into life in Industrial Revolution northern England in an open air museum. This is a great day out if you have kids.
Raby Castle - located about 18 miles from Durham in the Durham Dales, Raby Castle is a stunning 14th Century castle with extensive grounds. This is one of my favourite castles in the UK, along with Alnwick, Bamburgh and Dunstanburgh castles in Northumberland.
High Force - located in Forest-in-Teesdale and very close to Raby Castle, this waterfall plunges water over its precipice at 21m and is incredibly beautiful.
Angel of the North - located just off the A1(M) by Gateshead (en route to Newcastle), the iconic Angel of the North, designed by renowned sculptor Antony Gormley, is an icon of the north east and probably the UK's most famous piece of large scale public art. I would absolutely recommend stopping off for a look at her - she's magical.
Binchester Roman Fort - Northern England is littered with Roman ruins, and this is one of them, which offers fascinating guided tours looking into military life in the most northerly point of the vast Roman Empire.
Other considerations
One thing to consider is the season you visit Durham. I lived there for the best part of 18 years before I left for university, so while I am sure accommodations will be cheaper in winter months, however the north east of England is a wet part of the country, and it can be very cold from November to March. Also consider that around the winter solstice it gets light late (around 9am) and dark early (around 3pm) which minimises your sightseeing time. I would definitely take a trip there in summer; the greenery and gardens are stunning and the city will have a wonderfully summery vibe with lots of people out enjoying beer gardens, rowing on the river, and the like.
I would also be cognisant of accessibility. Durham is both very old and very hilly, and so has a number of cobbled streets, thin alleys and staircases, and some of the older areas of the city might be difficult to wander if you're physically impaired.
Another thing to consider (and I would strongly recommend doing this) is not just seeing Durham. I would absolutely add on a few nights in Newcastle; it's one of my favourite mid-size cities in the UK (along with Leeds and Liverpool). This would be especially convenient if you've flown into NCL, and if not, the train from Newcastle to London would be only marginally more expensive than from Durham given their close proximity.
Going even further, if you have access to a hire car, a great idea would be to extend your trip and head up the Northumberland coast towards Scotland. The landscapes, villages and castles are absolutely beautiful; it's a wild, rugged landscape that is simply breathtaking. Hadrian's Wall is a must-see if you decide to venture into Northumberland. If you took in Durham, Newcastle and Northumberland, you could easily spend a full week or more in this area of the UK and barely scratch the surface of what it has to offer.
Three day suggested itinerary
Day one:
Arrive mid-morning by train into Durham from either London or via Newcastle by air.
Check in to your hotel, drop your bags and freshen up.
Head into Durham and get a feel for the layout of the city, enjoy some shopping and grab some lunch.
Wander up to the Oriental Museum and take in the Botanical Gardens.
Enjoy a couple of drinks in any of the many bars.
Head back to your hotel, freshen up again and head back into the city.
Head to dinner at Tango, and enjoy some more drinks.
Day two:
Enjoy a lie in and then head out to Flat White Kitchen for a spot of brunch.
Wander up to the Cathedral, taking in its impressive interior and exterior architecture and maybe a guided tour. Take a deep breath and get ready to climb the staircase to the top of the 66m central tower and enjoy stunning views of the Durham countryside.
Head over Palace Green to the castle and enjoy a guided tour.
Pop into the Durham Museum and Heritage Centre, and wander over Kingsgate Bridge, enjoying the view of the river.
Grab a drink in the charming Court Inn or Half-Moon Inn.
Head back to your hotel and freshen up.
Wander back into town and grab dinner in the Gala Theatre development and enjoy a number of libations in the areas many bars.
Day three:
If you're nursing a hangover, pop a paracetamol and head out to Crook Hall and Gardens and let the greenery and fresh air blow the night before away.
Head to Elvet Bridge and hire a rowing boat from Brown's Boats and enjoy a leisurely trip along the river, taking in the stunning views of the cathedral and Durham's historic bridges.
Moor up your rowing boat and head for some lunch.
Check out your hotel, grab your bags and make your way back to London or Newcastle.
Day four:
Wake up early and grab a spot of breakfast in the city.
Check out your hotel, grab your bags and head out of Durham early to either Beamish, Raby Castle and High Force, Finchale Priory or Binchester Roman Fort for the rest of the morning and into the afternoon, getting lunch at one of the sights.
Either continue your break by heading to Newcastle and/or Northumberland for more exploration and northern hospitality, or head to the train station or airport for your return home.
Have you been to Durham before?
What would you recommend?
What did you love? What did you not like?
Let me know in the comments! :)